Софт классик: рекомендации

Olivia de Havilland

Soft Classic

SHAPE:
Soft, curved shapes with rounded edges. Smooth, symmetrical shapes that flow gently. Circles, ovals, subdued swirls.

LINE AND SILHOUETTE:
Smooth, soft, symmetrical silhouettes with slight shaping. Gently flowing lines that flare or swirl. Clean lines that are unbroken. Smooth, horizontal, or diagonal draping.
AVOID: Hard-edged geometric silhouettes. Overly ornate or intricate lines. Wide, unconstructed silhouettes. Sharp, severely straight lines. Straight lines without flow or shaping. Overly crisp and fitted silhouettes with staccato lines.

FABRIC:
Fabrics should be those of light to moderate weight that will drape softly and flow easily without being clingy. Finish should be slight matte or slight sheen, with a soft or plush surface (silks, cashmere, challis, crepe, suede, velvet, handkerchief linen, raw silk, shantung, etc.). Textures should be very light and soft. Fabrics that have a high-quality, imported look are excellent. Knits and wovens should be supple, light and drapable without being clingy.
AVOID: Heavy, stiff fabrics. Rough, thick textures. Bulky knits. Overly sheer fabrics. Extremely shiny fabrics (except for evening). Extremely dull-finished fabrics.

DETAIL:
Detail should be smooth and symmetrical, composed of rounded shapes with slightly intricate edges. Detail provides that extra touch of Yin (femininity), so it is meant to further soften and feminize your look. It is used as an afterthought, and should only suggest a Romantic streak. Be careful not to overdo it!

Slight definition through the shoulders: small, crisp pads; shoulder tucks; gathers; beading; slightly ornate trim; etc.

Clean, soft necklines. Draped necklines, soft cowls, jewel or scooped necks, subdued intricacy (gathers, shirring, soft pleats or folds, etc.).

Tapered sleeves and a defined waist. Subdued trim is possible (beautiful and unusual buttons, or small gathers).

AVOID: Sharply tailored detail. Wide, unconstructed detail. Overly ornate or fussy detail Animated, "perky" detail Minimal "no detail" looks.

SEPARATES:
Use carefully and sparingly. Separates are effective only if they are part of a well-matched, "ensemble approach" to your head-to-toe appearance.

Keep the colors, textures, and fabrics elegantly blended and avoid a staccato look.

Jackets: Jackets should be softly tailored with curvy shaping (subdued, not fussy). They can have slight shoulder definition with crisp pads, and are best with such added detail as shoulder tucks or gathers and tapered sleeves. Again, such detail should be subdued and understated, not fussy or overdone.

AVOID: Overly tailored, sharp-edged, stiff jackets. Wide, boxy jackets that are unconstructed. Extremely cropped jackets that are crisp and "perky."

Overly fussy or flouncy jackets with excess trim.

Skirts: Skirts should be soft, smooth, and gently flowing. A straight skirt should be lightweight and slightly tapered at the hemline to avoid stiffness.

Flared skirts are best, with an uneven hemline that softly flows. Waist detail should be soft and subdued with slight gathers or soft pleats that are stitched down through the hip. Bias-cut pieces that are added to the bottom of the skirt are also possible. Hemlines on a straight skirt should be short-never longer than one inch below the knee. Uneven hemlines will always be longer, gracefully grazing the mid-calf area. Slits should be small and elegant, suggested rather than overstated.

AVOID: Long, straight skirts. Sharply tailored skirts. Wide, unconstructed styles. Voluminous circles. Extra flouncy skirts-except for smoothly flared styles.

Extremely tight or clingy skirts. excess detail that is overdone (draping, shirring, full gathers, ultradeep folds, etc.

Pants: Pants should be of a softly tailored styles in lightweight fabric. Soft pleats, slight gathers and a slightly tapered leg are nice details. Hemline should be just below the top of the ankle so as to show a touch of foot or shoe. (For extra feminine touch.)

Blouses: Blouses should be soft and elegant with soft edges or a suggestion of intricate detail. Soft bows, slight lacy edges, jabots, and draped necklines are excellent. Subdued trim-applique, shirring, gathers, beading, etc.-is also good as long as it's not overdone. Fabric should be lightweight-with the slight sheen of silk best. Very soft and sheer linens, batiste, voile, etc., are also elegant.
AVOID: Sharply tailored styles. Wide, unconstructed styles. Animated, "perky" styles.

Sweaters: Sweaters should be soft and smooth. Lightweight knits are best, particularly when the finish is luxuriously soft to the touch. Cashmere, boucle, angora and silky weaves are all excellent. Lengths should be short to moderate. Subdued, intricate detail (applique, beading, shirring) is good.
AVOID: Oversized, bulky sweaters. Rough or thick knits. Skinny-ribbed knits. "Perky" patterns.

COLOR:
Your use of color should be soft and luscious within your complimentary palette. Pastels and moderately bright tones are best while light neutrals are quite elegant in luxurious fabrics. Color combinations should be softly monochromatic, with intensities blending together rather than sharply contrasting.

NOTE: This does not mean "all one color," but rather that tones should softly harmonize. Light/bright color combinations are especially effective on you. Dark colors will need softening and brightening; either use them in accents or add a touch of soft texture or sheen to the fabric to dampen their starkness.
AVOID: Multicolored splashes. Head-to-toe dark color schemes. Sharply contrasting color schemes.

PRINTS: Prints should be soft, flowing, and watercolor. Abstract rounded shapes that swirl into each other are excellent.

AVOID: Sharp geometrics. Small symmetrical prints. Animated, "cute" prints.

ACCESSORIES:
Should be clean, elegant, tapered in shape with a slightly ornate or intricate trim. (Be careful not to overdo!)
Shoes: Delicate, tapered shapes. Narrow heels and toes. Slightly bare (sling-back, open toe, etc.). Delicate, feminine flats.
AVOID: Angular styles. Chunky styles. Plain pumps.


Bags: Small to moderate size, Rounded shapes perhaps with slight trim (gathers, shirring, etc.). Clutches or moderate strapes. Supple leather.
AVOID: Overly large styles. Angular shapes.

Hats: Small and elegant with rounded shapes and clean, crisp brims. Picture frame or garden party styles with soft detail (silk flowers, etc.).
AVOID: Severe, man-tailored hats. Large, unconstructed hats. Small, "perky" caps.

Hosiery: Moderately sheer styles are best. (Slightly opaque styles in light shades are also good.) A "light leg" that blends the stockings and shoe one or two shades lighter than the hemline is your most elegant and sophisticated look. You can also match the shoe and hemline while wearing a lighter stocking for a more casual or fun look. As for going for the "one long line" effect or matching the hemline, stocking and shoe, use it with caution or it can be very dowdy on you! You can use it when your colors are light or medium tones. It is terrible on you when the colors are dark. The only exception is in the evening, when the dark stocking is ultrasheer; then it is a good choice, if you wish.
AVOID: Extremely opaque stockings. One long line of dark color. Three-color looks (stocking/shoe/hemline contrasts). Heavily textured stockings.

Jewelry: Jewelry should be clean, elegant and softly feminine. It adds a touch of sophistication and delicacy to your look. It doesn't need to be overdone; simply suggesting your glamour with a hint of dangle, a hint of sparkle, and a hint of intricacy is quite effective.

Shapes are round, ornate, and flowing while always remaining symmetrical. Circles, slight dangles, swirls, ovals, and clusters are all excellent.

A slightly antique approach to your jewelry is best.

AVOID: Sharp geometrics. Heavy, chunky pieces. Rough, ethnic styles. Overly flashy jewelry. Too much jewelry. No jewelry.

EVENING WEAR

Symmetrical, flowing shapes. Slightly ornate detail. Lightweight, draped, and sheer fabric. Slightly sparkly fabric. Smooth fabric. Slight ornate trim (but not fussy).

Options:
Chiffon ball gowns
Long gowns with flowing skirts
Beaded bodices and jackets
Ornate and fitted jackets, over gowns (shoulder tucks, shirring, etc.)
Silk dresses
Elegant dinner suits with fitted jackets

HAIR:
Hair should be controlled, smooth, and soft; an elegantly clean outline with curved edges. Curls and waves are lovely as long as they aren't overly teased or cascading. A well- kept and meticulously groomed style is essential. Blunt-cuts may be best and a very subtle layering to frame the face is important!

Lengths should be moderate to long, but the longer your hair the more likely it will require setting to retain the stylization necessary for your feminine sophisticated look. Likewise, if you opt for perms or processing, you will have to do some extra styling-with hot rollers or a curling iron, for example-to maintain a controlled style. An unkempt or uncared-for hairstyle will spoil your total look more quickly than any other element of your appearance.
AVOID: Severe, geometric styles. Overly layered, "wild," or "manelike" styles. Overly ornate, teased styles. Wash 'n wear styles.
Boyishly cropped styles.

HAIRCOLOR:
Haircolor should be soft and luxurious. Realistic and natural colors are best. Don't stray far from your natural haircolor. Lightening your hair a shade or brightening it a shade is possible if your original color is blond, red, or medium brown. You might also choose subtle low-lights if your hair is in these color ranges. Brunettes should always avoid lightening or highlights because the result is very aging and tiring, particularly after you've begun to gray.
AVOID: Unrealistic or theatrical haircolors. (blue-black, fiery red, platinum blond, etc.). Overstreaked hair.

More notes about haircolor: In general, if you're a high-contrast person, you'll need the richness and depth from an overall color process. If you're a low-contrast person, you may find a subtle highlight quite effective to add a little shimmer, but when covering gray, you must switch to an overall process. Otherwise, the highlights will either mute down your haircolor (which will fade you) or overly "brighten" your coloring and give a brassy effect.


MAKEUP:
A well-polished makeup is a vital touch. Soft to bright shades, beautifully blended in a watercolor effect, creates your most elegant, slightly feminine face.

A hint of sparkle around the eyes, rosy cheeks within your palette colors and slightly glossy lips complement your Image Identity to perfection!

AVOID: Heavy contouring with sharp edges (too stark). All Smoky colors (too cold). All Neutrals (too aging). Overly sparkly makeup (unsophisticated). Minimal, "no makeup" Looks (too harsh).

One of his suggested looks for a Soft Classic with Spring coloring is: Honey Browns, Soft Copper and Sparkly Gold. (Also Olive, Jade, Palest Shimmering Gold and Chestnut/Copper/Shimmering Yellow). However there are many other options, he only lists these as he can't cover the whole spectrum.

Your effect of your eye makeup is matte with a slight sparkle or frost added as if an afterthought. The highest concentration of iridescence should remain in your highlighter.

Your lipsticks should generally be slightly frosted. Always add moderate gloss over your lipstick.