понедельник, 7 мая 2018 г.

Софт натурал: рекомендации

Julie Andrews

SOFT NATURAL

Your position on the Yin/Yang scale is: Soft Yang with a Yin undercurrent.

Shape:
Asymmetric and irregular curves (elongated ovals, wide circles, ellipticals, etc.). Relaxed geometrics with rounded edges. Easy swirls.
Avoid: Sharp geometrics. Wide, chunky and boxy shapes. Plain, symmetrical shapes. Overly ornate shapes.

Line and Silhouette:
Unconstructed silhouette with shaping, particularly at waist. Relaxed lines with subtle drape and flow, particularly bias cuts.
Avoid: Wide, shapeless silhouettes. Sharp, severe silhouettes. Symmetrical silhouettes. Fitted silhouettes.

Detail:
Detail should be loose, relaxed, delicate, slightly intricate and very creative. Any detail that suggest either a bit of the antique or the earth is excellent.

Shoulders may be extended and padded, but should not be sharp or stiff.

Necklines should be loose and soft, not closed, restricted, or fussy (simple draped necklines; soft cowls, soft, notched collars; clean lapels, shawl collars, etc.)
Waist should be defined, although loosely. There can be a slightly blousy effect at the waist, with the top draped over the waistline, or a slightly dropped waist as long as the silhouette is fluid.

Gathers and folds should be deep, full and soft.

Sleeves can be full and flowing or gently tapered at the wrist with a minimum of detail.

Trim should be delicate and antique (shirring, applique, etc.).

Avoid: Sharply tailored detail. No detail. Overly fitted and fussy detail. Animated "perky" detail.


Color:
Your use of color should be vibrant and rich. Brights and pastels form the basis of your wardrobe, but soft neutrals with a little vivid accenting can be very elegant and exciting in beautiful textures. Dark colors will be too stark if your don't break them up. Use them primarily for accents or for color combinations. Bright and soft color combinations work best, as opposed to starkly contrasting ones. For example light/bright or bright/dark combos are softer on you than light/dark ones. Wild color combinations (bright/bright) of opposing intensities are fun, particularly for your casual clothes.
Avoid: Dull, monochromatic schemes. Head-to-toe dark schemes.

Prints:
Prints should be softly rounded shapes, abstract and flowing. They may be either watercolor-blended or very electric and vibrant, as long as they are slightly irregular and have soft edges. Size should be moderate to slightly large.
Avoid: Small, symmetrical prints. Severe geometrics. Overly intricate prints. Animated, "cute" or "perky" prints.

Because there is an earthiness that comes from your soft Yang basis, anything tactile is excellent on you. Soft textures--such as slubbed fabrics, handkerchief linens, raw silk, fuzzy knits--are very good choices when kept to the lightweight side and used in an unstructured silhouette.

Fabric:
Soft textures with a plush or slightly rough finish. A tactile feeling is very stunning and evocative of your freshly feminine and artistic essence. Weights should be light to moderate so fluid movement is possible. Anything wrinkly, nubby, slubbed, or loosely woven is excellent, particularly in a daytime, suited look. Shiny fabrics may be worn with ease in the evening, but should be left aside for day, except for slight sheen of texture (such as shantung). Deep pile (velour, suede, boucle knits, etc.) is excellent, as is buttery-soft leather.

Separates:
An obvious use of separates is excellent for you. Be sure to keep an artful blend of textures, colors and patterns.

Jackets:
Jackets should be unconstructed, soft, and always showing the waist (but not necessarily emphasizing it). This can be a jacket that is shaped through the waist, or it can be a jacket that is unstructured and very lightweight or flimsy, so that it drapes around the body but still reveals the waist. Shoulders can be extended and padded, without being crisp, and the length can be shortish if the jacket is shaped through the waist, or longer (top of the thigh area) if it is belted or unconstructed / boxy. Jackets that are not shaped or belted must be very draped and fluid, and should be left unfastened.
Avoid: Severely tailored jackets. Long, heavy jackets, whether constructed or not. Cropped bolero jackets.
Flouncy jackets that are overly fitted and trim.
Skirts:
Skirts should have a soft outline. Full or flared skirts that are flat in the hip area are excellent. Straight skirts that are lightweight, draped, or slightly tapered are also good.

Straight skirts that have an even hem and are worn short, no longer than the bottom of the kneecap. Full skirts have an uneven hem and are worn long, mid calf and below.

Slits, kick pleats, button fronts, plackets, etc., are all fine, as are bits of intricate detail (shirring, draping, etc.), as long as they are not restrictive.

Avoid: Long, straight, pencil-slim skirts. Overly fitted skirts with excess trim. Symmetrical skirts (i.e., A-lines).

Pants:
Pants should be lightweight and slightly draped, with a bit of soft detail or ornate trim (gathers, shirring, soft pleats). Legs may be softly straight, draping about the ankle, or slightly tapered and pegged.
Avoid: Severe, man-tailored styles. Wide, shapeless styles. Plain, symmetrical styles. Overly fitted styles with fussy trim.

Blouses:
Blouses should be soft, draped, and slightly loose and billowy or clingy. Detail should be slightly antique and intricate, but should not be fussy and overdone. Open necks are best, particularly if draped, and camisoles are also good. The more detail there is, the more unconstructed the blouses should be.
Sheer fabrics are excellent (voiles, batiste, etc.). The shiner the fabric, the less detail there should be.
Avoid: Stiffly tailored blouses. Severe blouses. Fussy necklines. Shapeless blouses.

Sweaters:
Soft knits that are luxurious to the touch. They can be either lightweight and silky or thick and deep, just as long as they don't ever seem rough.
Slightly long sweaters are nice, if they are somewhat clingy and reveal the body (particularly the waist) underneath. Cropped or fitted sweaters should be thicker (boucle, cable-stitched, etc.) and any detail (shirring, draping, etc.) should be low on the body and loose. Trim such as applique, jewels, beading, etc., should be slightly antique or softly abstract in shape. Skinny, ribbed knits can be fun, especially in dresses that your belt.
Avoid: Heavy sweaters that hide the body.

Dresses:
Dresses should be soft and flowing, but at the same time loose and unconstructed. They should either loosely define the waist in full, flared silhouettes, or be very draped and clingy in a straighter silhouette. Detail should be low on the body (shirring, gathers, applique, sparkly trim, etc.) as opposed to high or framing the face. A slightly antique approach to dresses is also possible, but keep them loose and billowy instead of fussy and overly fitted.
Avoid: Severely tailored styles. Plain symmetrical styles. Wide, shapeless styles. Overly fussy styles. Crisp, fitted styles.
Evening Wear:
Simple shapes with an easy flow. Drapable fabrics. Plush fabrics. Sightly sheer fabrics. Glitzy trim. Loose waist detail. Soft necklines.
Flowing gowns with flared skirts
Pouffy cocktail dressed with fitted tops and flouncy skirts (long or short)
Evening sarongs
Evening separates (blouses, sweaters, etc.)
Draped pants
Antique lace dresses.

Accessories:
Accessories should be on the lightweight and delicate side, without being overly ornate or trimmed. Yet at the same time your creativity will cry out for special touches here and there. The trick is not to overdo it! You are a Natural, after all, so a little goes a long way on you. One special piece, perhaps a beautiful supple belt of suede with an ornate Navajo Indian buckle, will be just the right accent to express your inner creativity without overpowering the fresh and simple appeal that is the centerpiece of your Image Identity.

Shoes:
Should be tapered in shape and slightly delicate in style with little or no trim. an open-toe, sling-back, or "bare" look is best. The shape may also be angular if the heel is very high and narrow and the toe is very tapered. Feminine flats with little trim.
Avoid: Extremely angular, heavy styles.
Bags:
Should be moderate in size. Shape may be slightly rounded with little or not trim, or softly geometric with slight gathers or intricacy to soften. Antique bags are excellent for evening (small and beaded). Moderate sized, unconstructed "pouchy" styles are also good.
Avoid: Crisply structured bags.

Belts (if worn):
Should be wide and supple, either soft leather or suede, or exquisite fabric. Buckles should be intricate and slightly antique, with sparkles or beading for evening especially lovely.
Avoid: Stiff belts.

Hats:
Should be soft and floppy (i.e., picture frame) or rounded and clean (i.e., crisp-brimmed straw). Detail should be soft (antique, ribbons, lace, or flowers).
Fur hats are soft and fluffy.
Avoid: Severe, man-tailored styles. Small, symmetrical styles. Small crisp caps.

Hosiery:
Flesh-toned stockings are best for an elegant daytime work look if you wear a suit. Opaque stockings in light shades are soft, and you may definitely contrast the stocking with the hemline, if you wish. Bright and textured stockings are excellent for fun. Dark stockings are for evening only and should be very sexy and sheer, with lacy textures or exciting sparkles. (Sexy!)
Avoid: One long line of dark color (too dull and matronly on you).

Jewelry:
Likewise your jewelry is most effective when it has some texture to it, as well as the feeling of having been hand-designed and created. The look that suggests the spirit of an artist is embedded in your necklace, earrings, or ornate wrist cuffs is simply a fabulous way of evoking your wild passion and warmth. Again, just remember to keep a touch of the delicate and the ornate evident in shape, detail, and finish.
Your Jewelry should be delicate in workmanship but highly creative in effect. Unusual materials, particularly crystal, hand-wrought copper or silver, leather, intricately carved leather or stone, faceted glass, and any piece that looks as though it was designed by an artist is wonderful for you. "Wearable art" suits you best, ranging from wild and funky pieces with feathers, faux jewels, and sparkles to ornate Navajo Indian turquoise to elegant mixtures of opals, diamonds, and platinum! It must be both highly original and slightly intricate at the same time. Very simple antique pieces are also quite appropriate, especially for very dressy evenings, but always make sure there is at least a touch of sparkle and a bit of dangle!
Avoid: Severe geometrics. Stark, avant-garde pieces. Minimal, "no jewelry" looks. Small, symmetrical pieces. Heavy, chunky pieces.

HAIR AND MAKEUP

Both your hair and makeup should be creative, fresh and soft. A moderate to longish hairstyle is best, and it should always be layered for freedom of movement.

Blunt cuts will be boring, and geometrics will be harsh and severe. For the same reason, a "fresh face" with touches of soft color is the makeup that will complete your head-to-toe look most appealing. (Hair should be soft and free. A loosely layered cut, giving the hair a slightly tousled and softly sensual look, is best. Length should be moderate to long.)

Hair:
Hair should be soft and free. A loosely layered cut, giving the hair a slightly tousled and softly sensual look, is best.
Length should be moderate to long.
Avoid: Severe, geometric cuts. Blunt-edged cuts, symmetrical cuts. Boyishly cropped hair. Overly ornate and stylized hair (except for evening styles, which should then be highly original very witty).

Haircolor:
Haircolor should be rich, natural, and soft looking. It should not look as if you color your hair. If you choose to do so, make sure the effect is subtle, not drastic. Subtle lowlights.
Avoid: Boldly theatrical colors (blue-black, platinum, or straw-yellow blond, firey red, etc.). Overly lightened hair.

Makeup:
Your makeup is crucial to pulling your head-to-toe appearance together. it should be fresh face with only a hint of soft/bright color, styled in a watercolor blend. A touch of frost to the eyes, very rosy and rounded cheeks, and soft and glossy lips finish your fresh and feminine loveliness to perfection. In the evening, sheer sparkle may be added at will (but be careful that it remains fairly translucent).
Avoid: Heavy contouring (too stark). Dark colors--smoky eyes, deep lips (too severe). Neutrals (too tired and aging). "No makeup" look (too dull and matronly).

Makeup Concept:

The Radiant Face: Soft and bright colors blended, in rounded shapes, to a muted watercolor swirl. Primarily matte colors with just a touch of sparkle.

Application Keys:
Eyes: Soft to bright colors, very smudged together with a hint of sparkle on top. Very blended eyeliner. Extra mascara.
Blush: Soft and rounded cheeks with pastel or "pretty" color (within the contet of the palette being used).
Lips: Full and glossy. Softly pastel to bright colors. Semi-sheer.
Avoid: A neutral face with no soft or bright color. Heavy contouring (too stark). Dark colors--smoky eyes, deep lips (too severe). Neutrals (too tired and aging).

SOFT NATURAL MAKEUP COLOR CHART

SPRING (Vibrant)

Lips:
1. Bright Melon Peach (frost)
2. Clear Red (matte)
3. Coral Pink (frost)

Blush:
1. Vivid Peach
2. Poppy Red
3. Coral Pink

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Jade/Bright Green/Sparkly Peach
2. Turquoise/Bright Aqua/Sparkly Apricot
3. Honey Brown/Bright Copper/Sparkly Gold

SUMMER (Dusty)

Lips:
1. Light Pink to Rose (frost)
2. Rosy Red (matte)
3. Orchid (frost)

Blush:
1. Light Pink to Soft Rose
2. Rosy Red
3. Soft Fuchsia

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Smoky Purple/Pink/Frosty Lavender
2. Soft Navy/Dusty Fuchsia/ Frosty Pink
3. Blue-Grey/Periwinkle/Frosty Lilac

AUTUMN (Rich)

Lips:
1. Bright Russet (frost)
2. Tomato Red (matte)
3. Soft Copper to Honey Beige (frost)

Blush:
1. Rust
2. Tomato Red
3. Vivid Peach to Soft Terra Cotta

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Teal/Turquoise/Sparkly Bronze
2. Olive/Jade/Sparkly Apricot
3. Chestnut/Bright Copper/Sparkly Gold

WINTER (Contrast)
Lips:
1. Deep Raspberry to Soft Cranberry (frost)
2. Scarlet (matte)
3. Hot Pink to Bright Fuchsia

Blush:
1. Dark Rose
2. Scarlet
3. Hot Pink to Soft Fuchsia
Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Navy/Violet/Sparkly Lavender
2. Charcoal/Cobalt/Sparkly Pink
3. Deep Purple/Burgundy/Sparkly Lilac

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