четверг, 19 апреля 2018 г.

Театральный романтик по Кибби: Рекомендации



THEATRICAL ROMANTIC

YIN/YANG BALANCE

Soft Yin with a slight Yang undercurrent.


SHAPE
Shapes should be rounded, intricate, and ornate. A slight sharpness at the edge or a tendency to the slightly oversized is good.
Avoid: Geometrics and symmetrical shapes. Chunky or bulky shapes. Sharp, severe shapes.

LINE AND SILHOUETTE
Silhouettes should be hourglass, emphasizing the curves and showcasing the waist. The waist should be sharply defined and the shoulders should be crisply padded. Tapering at the wrists, hemline, and knee areas.

Lines should be soft, draped, flowing, clingy, ornate, and intricate.
Avoid: All severe silhouettes. All over-sized or unconstructed silhouettes. All tailored silhouettes. All
straight lines. All sharp lines. All wide or horizontal lines. All long vertical lines that hide the waist.

FABRIC
Fabric should be lightweight and drapable for soft fluidity (silks, jersey, challis, crepe, handkerchief linen, etc.). Soft textures, a plush pile (suede, velvet, shantung, etc.), sheer fabrics and shiny fabrics are all excellent. Fluffy knits (angora, boucle, etc.) are extremely effective.
Avoid: Stiff fabrics. Heavyweight fabrics. Rough textures. Dull-finished fabrics.

DETAIL
Detail should be intricate, ornate, delicate, and quite lavish. An excess of detail and trim is important to help frame and focus the face. Bows, sheer lace, jabots, soft ruffles, and sparkly appliqué are excellent.
Necklines should be soft and draped or shirred and gathered. Shoulders should be padded but curved. Shoulder tucks, gathers, and bouffant shapes are perfect.
Sleeves should be tapered at the wrist; delicate and ornate buttons and trim are advisable.
Waistline should always be emphasized.
Gathers, shirring, and draping at the waist are necessary for softness and intricacy.
Avoid: Plain or minimal detail. Sharp or severe detail. Extremely oversized, bulky detail. Symmetrical, subdued detail. Crisp, "perky" detail.

SEPARATES
Your separates should always include an artful blending of plush textures, draped fabrics, and luxurious colors so you never disrupt the soft fluidity of line.
Always avoid any kind of harsh contrast between top and bottom.

Jackets
Jackets should be short and nipped at the waist. Flouncy peplums that flair out or hang down in the back are best. Lapels can be very ornate, with scalloped edges, braiding, or bejeweled trim-or slightly pointed and peaked. Shawl lapels are also effective. Trim should always be ornate.
Avoid: Severely tailored jackets. Unconstructed, boxy jackets. Traditional blazer styles. Long jackets that hide the waist.

Skirts
Skirts should be soft and shapely. Your version of a "straight" skirt is actually tulip-shaped, with some gathering at the waist and a narrow taper at the hem. This type of hemline should be short, no longer than just below the knee. The other type of skirt that you wear equally well is a softly flowing skirt with an uneven hem. This will be longer, at least mid calf. Skirts should have intricate detail, such as draping, shirring, gathers, or bias-cut pieces.
Trumpets, sarongs, and circles are all good shapes.
Avoid: Severe or straight skirts. Traditional tailored styles (A-lines, pencil-slim styles, etc). Wide,
shapeless styles. Long hemlines (except on uneven hems that drape or flow). Sharp pleats.

Pants
Pants should always be soft and draped, showcasing your curvy figure. Gathers, draping, or shirring at the waist, and a narrow or tapered ankle. Pants should be short (ending at the ankle).
Avoid: Straight, tailored styles. Sharp details (pleats, cuffs, pockets). Baggy, unconstructed styles.

Blouses
Soft, silky and draped styles with draped or ornate detail and lavish, intricate trim.
Avoid: Stiffly tailored styles with sharp detail. Unconstructed, shapeless styles.

Sweaters
Plush, fluffy knits with soft necklines, ornate trim, and lavish patterns. Short, shaped styles that are fitted at the waist and wrists.
Avoid: Heavy, bulky knits. Skinny ribbed knits. Plain styles, such as cardigans, crew-necked Shetlands, etc.
Shapeless, baggy styles.

DRESSES
Dresses should always be feminine and shapely. Defined shoulders, waist emphasis, and intricate detail (shirring, gathers, sparkles, appliqué, etc.). Soft and draped necklines; tapered wrists; and a tapered hemline if short, flared hemline if long. Lightweight fabrics with sheen or plush-ness and luscious colors complete the picture.
Avoid: Sharply tailored styles. Unconstructed styles. Long, "no waist" styles. Symmetrical, subdued styles.

COLOR
Your use of color should be bright and lush, emphasizing a watercolor blend or bright/light motif. Some sharp contrast is exciting; however, you will always want some vivid color in your outfits. Pastels can also be quite elegant if you mix them with light accessories. Dark colors can be too stark for you unless you break them up with vivid accents, or use them in the evening in very glamorous fabrics with sheen or plushness (charmeuse, satin, lace or velvet).
Avoid: Head-to-toe "darks" (too stark). Head-to-toe "neutrals" (too tiring). Monochromatic schemes (too dull).

PRINTS
Prints should be vivid and luscious, with the emphasis on an abstract or watercolor blend. Swirls of color, intricate and ornate shapes, and wild florals are best. Rounded or feathered edges are lovely, as are vivid color combinations. Size should be moderate to large.
Avoid: Geometrics. Animated, "perky" styles. Small symmetrical styles. Stripes and plaids.

ACCESSORIES
Should always be feminine, intricate, and ornate. Invest in high quality here, for these are crucial details in polishing your look and providing elegance and sophistication.

Shoes
Delicate, feminine styles. Strappy pumps with open backs and toes. Ornate trim. Feminine flate.
Avoid: Basic pumps. Angular pumps. Chunky styles. Plain styles.

Bags
Small, rounded shapes. Ornate, intricate trim (gathers, tucks, beads, etc.). Lightweight, supple leather. Fabric bags. Delicate shoulder straps. Elegantly narrow briefcase or unusual material such as ostrich and suede.

Belts
Belts should be worn whenever possible to showcase the waist. Soft, supple belts, moderate to wide (crushy). Ornate and intricate buckles. Bejeweled and beaded styles.
Avoid: Stiff styles. Narrow, self-belts. Slim, subdued styles.

Hats
Rounded shapes, crisp brims. Picture frames. Small, chic cocktail hats with veils or ornate trim.
Avoid: Sharp, man-tailored hats. Floppy hats. Crisp caps or ethnic hats.

Hosiery
Should always be ultra-sheer. Lacy textures are excellent. A "light leg" with the stocking and shoe blending together several shades lighter than your hemline is elegant and sophisticated, and very effective when you are wearing your luscious bright colors or soft pastels. Darker hemlines will require a darker stocking, but keep it as translucent as possible. Silk stockings and a touch of sparkly trim can be stunning for evening fun.

JEWELRY
Jewelry is your most important accessory. You simply can't wear too much of it (when it's the right kind), and you simply can't do without it! It provides elegance, glamour, and sophistication.

Shapes are intricate, ornate, rounded, swirling, baroque, and rococo.

Sparkly materials are essential (crystal, gems, glass, polished metal, etc.) even for daytime, although you can suggest, rather than pour it on here. In the evening, go for broke-and trail your jewels behind you!

Just remember to keep the combination of delicate/lavish working together-delicate in workmanship, lavish in effect!

Avoid: Geometrics. Sharp, severe, or avant-garde pieces. Chunky pieces. Rough, heavy, or ethnic pieces. Small, symmetrical pieces. A "no jewelry" look.

EVENING WEAR

Fitted shapes with ornate trim and waist emphasis. Cleavage emphasis. Draped fabrics. Sparkly fabrics. Plush fabrics. Theatrical ensembles.
Form-fitting gowns with cleavage emphasis
Shirred and draped cocktail dresses
Fitted dinner suits with peplum jackets and ornate trim
Bustier dresses

HAIR
Hair should be lavish and ornate, adding the extra special touch of stylization to your Image Identity. The shape should be rounded, soft, and as full as possible. Waves, perms, sets, teasing, and the like are all potential pluses for you. Just remember to keep the hair soft, never stiff. If your hair is long,
it should be elaborate and voluminous in a very well-cared-for manner. If you hair is on the short side, it should look superstylized and coiffed. The cut will require some layering for curve.
Avoid: Severe styles. Geometric cuts. Blunt-edged cuts. Overly layered hair. Wash 'n wear styles.

HAIRCOLOR
If you want to color your hair, choose shades that are rich and vibrant. You are striving for a glamorous haircolor, which means intense; browns are rich, reds are fiery, blonds are bright, and black is jet! As you gray, you will probably want to cover it, although dramatic silver streaks can be quite theatrical if you are lucky enough to have inherited them!
Avoid: Overly pale colors (except platinum). Highlights that are meant to "soften" the color-"soft equals "tired" in this case! Salt and pepper hair, unless the base color is very dark and the streaks are silvery white.

MAKEUP
Makeup provides the icing for your cake, and should be very polished, colorful, and watercolor soft. A touch of sparkle is always refined and sophisticated, even for daytime, and evening makeup can glitter away! Soft and bright colors should be artfully blended around the eyes while the cheeks should be rosy and the lips glossy.
Avoid: Overly dark shades and heavy contouring (too stark). Neutrals or smoky makeup (very tiring and aging).
Minimal makeup (not a chance, you ornate jewel!).

THEATRICAL ROMANTIC MAKEUP COLOR CHART

SPRING

Lips:
1. Bright Coral Pink
2. Clear Red (matte)
3. Bright Melon

Blush:
1. Bright Coral Pink
2. Poppy Red
3. Vivid Apricot

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Shimmery Teal/Turquoise/Frosty Peach
2. Shimmery Jade/Bright Green/Frosty Apricot
3. Shimmery Honey/Bright Copper/Frosty Yellow

SUMMER

Lips:
1. Bright Pink
2. Rosy Red (matte)
3. Orchid

Blush:
1. Clear Bright Pink
2. Rosy Red
3. Orchid

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Shimmery Grape/Magenta/Frosty Lilac
2. Shimmery Navy/Fuchsia/Frosty Lavender
3. Shimmery Blue-Gray/Periwinkle/Frosty Pink

AUTUMN

Lips:
1. Bright Russet
2. Bright Tomato (matte)
3. Light Copper

Blush:
1. Bright Rust
2. Bright Tomato
3. Vivid Peach

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Royal Purple/Turquoise/Frosty Copper
2. Shimmery Olive/Bright Jade/Frosty Peach
3. Shimmery Chestnut/Bright Copper/Frosty Gold

WINTER

Lips:
1. Magenta
2. Scarlet
3. Hot Pink

Blush:
1. Magenta
2. Soft Scarlet
3. Hot Pink

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Navy/Hot Pink/Frosty Lavender
2. Royal Purple/Bright Violet/Frosty Lilac
3. Shimmery Charcoal/Bright Cobalt/Sparkly Pink

NOTES
Lipsticks should be frosted unless noted otherwise. You can soften the effect of your reds by adding a topcoat of a lighter shade. Always add heavy gloss.

Eyeliner should always be in the same tone as the lid color, but several shades deeper.

All your eyeshadows should have iridescence. The hightlighter should be the most frosted of your shades, while the orbital bone should be the brightest and most visible shade on your eye. Lid color may be slightly smoky and smudged, used as a soft accent.

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