понедельник, 7 мая 2018 г.

Натурал по Кибби: рекомендации




NATURAL

YIN/YANG BALANCE
Soft Yang (between the symmetrical balance of the Classic and the sharp-edged Yang of the Dramatic)

SHAPE
Geometric shapes with soft or rounded edges are the key. Rounded-edged rectangles. Soft oblongs, rounded-edged squares, irregular shapes, and soft asymmetrics.
Avoid: Sharp geometrics. Circles and swirls. Ornate shapes.

LINE AND SILHOUETTE
A relaxed, straight line is the outline of your look. Your silhouette is softly tailored, always unconstructed. Your outline should be fairly narrow and slim, in a loose and easy way.
Avoid: Sharply angular lines. Severely straight lines. Extremely tailored or constructed silhouettes. Oversized, shapeless silhouettes. Ornate, intricate lines. Flowing, swirling lines.

FABRIC
All soft textures are excellent for you, as is any fabric with a rough or nubby surface. Any wrinkly fabric works well for you, as do all woven fabrics. Knits are excellent in nearly any weight and thickness, from very finely woven to very heavy and rough. Moderate weights are best, although textures can easily be lighter (raw silks, linens, etc.). Plush velours, suede, and soft leather are perfect, and drapable fabrics are best kept to heavier weight jerseys. A matte finish is far superior to sheen for daytime (even your best silks are crisp orientals, etc.). In the evening, you can go very glitzy with hard-finished sheens (especially metallics, lame, thick brocades, etc.).
Avoid: Sheer fabrics. Clingy fabrics (except for knits). Flimsy fabrics.

DETAILS

Detail should be kept minimal. Plain and simple is best for you. Any unconstructed or loosely tailored detail works well. Simple necklines (soft horizontals, boat-necks, clean slashes, deep V's, loose cowls, notched collars) are best, and you should concentrate on open necklines for your air of casual chic.
Soft-edged shoulder pads are very good, and lapels should be tailored, notched, or clean (lapel-less). Cuffs should be very plain. Pleats should be soft and deep, and gathers should be minimal. Dropped waist detail (loose sashes, over-bloused tops, ties, etc.) is excellent, as are slightly dropped shoulders. You can use small touches of hand embroidery or rough lace and eyelet for very simple trim.

Avoid: Extremely tailored detail. Extremely sharp or angular detail. Extremely oversized detail. Ornate or intricate detail. Any frilly detail. Any closed or restrictive detail.

SEPARATES
Separates are extremely exciting on you, and should make up the bulk of your wardrobe. Even in very conservative suited looks, you'll do better with an artful mixing of patterns, textures, and colors than you will with an overly matched look, which tends to be extraordinarily dull on you! The type of articles that are usually described as "Designer Sportswear" (but aren't actually sporty at all) are an excellent hunting ground for you! Your look is definitely mix 'n match in the most sophisticated sense of the word, and you should expend most of your creative energy in this area!

JACKETS
Unconstructed. Relaxed shapes. Elongated (ending from the upper thigh on down). Relaxed and easy fit. Soft-edged shoulder pads. Textured surfaces. Patch pockets. Tailored, notched lapels, or lapel-less. Long cardigan styles with shoulder pads. Unconstructed double-breasted (left open). Long blouson with dropped waists.

Avoid: Severely tailored styles. Constructed styles. Flouncy styles (peplums and nipped-in waists). Cropped styles.

SKIRTS

Simple straight skirts, Softly tailored styles. Culottes, gauchos. Simple tailored detail (plackets, pockets, trouser pleats, slits, low kick pleats, inverted pleats, button-front). Moderate length (one inch below knee). Very short skirts for fun/funky looks. Very slightly flared hemlines (kept flat through the hip area-these will have a longer hemline, mid-calf).

Avoid: Full, gathered skirts. Flouncy skirts. Accordian pleats. Severely straight skirts. Long, pencil-slim skirts.

PANTS
Nearly all styles are excellent, from very casual to very dressy. Simple tailored styles with minimal detail. Elasticized or drawstring. Unconstructed styles.

Sweats. Jeans. Short, cropped, or long. Cuffed or cuffless. Shiny, silky, or satiny evening styles, including pajama styles.

Avoid: Draped, tapered leg styles with gathered waists.

BLOUSES
Simple tailored styles with open necklines. Unconstructed styles. Smooth surfaced, or light weaves and textures.
Avoid: Severely tailored blouses. Frilly blouses.

SWEATERS
Nearly any sweater style works well for you. Thick knits, ribbed, nubbies, cable stitching, shaggy mohairs. Any and all lengths. Soft shoulder pads are also a good touch. Solids and wild prints.
Avoid: Overly delicate and overly fluffy knits with trim.

DRESSES
Dresses should e simple and unconstructed, with a narrow shape and a relaxed outline. Softly tailored styles work well, as do dropped and loose-waisted styles.
A softly tailored coatdress with an open neckline or a narrow chemise in a beautifully textured raw silk or linen would be another choice. Nearly all knits are perfect, as are wrap styles, safari styles, T-shirt styles, and blouson or two-piece styles.
Avoid: Severely tailored styles. Flouncy styles. Ornate styles. Extremely wide, shapless styles.

COLORS
Color is an area in which you should have lots of fun! Strive for zip, verve, and lots of pizzazz with bolds, brights, pastels, vivids, and wild color combinations-anything imaginative. Neutrals work well when they are used in beautifully textured fabric (raw silks, linens, luscious weaves, etc.), but you
 will feel a little dull without a few bright accents, either in accessories or jewelry. Break all the rules when it comes to color! Mix 'n match with ease.
Avoid: Monochromatic color schemes-they are very dull and boring on you, unless the fabric is exquisitely textured beyond belief!

PRINTS
Your use of prints can include casual styles that are soft-edged geometrics (plaids, stripes, paisleys, etc.) and funky prints in irregular shapes (abstract asymmetrics, leaves, animal prints, etc.). They should be of moderate scale to slightly large and will generally have a softly blended edge. Colors can be very wild and unusual if you wish, or more muted and earthy-looking.
Avoid: Small prints. Symmetrical prints. Extremely angular geometrics. Watercolor florals. Ornate and intricate prints. Extremely oversized prints.

ACCESSORIES
Accessories should be kept minimal; plain and simple is your best look here. Unconstructed styles with soft or rounded edged geometric shapes are most effective. You can use bold colors to add spark if you wish, although neutrals are also fine.

SHOES
Simple tailored styles. Low to moderate heel. High heels should be very angular and straight, not tapered. Stacked heel, wedged, and all flats. Evening sandals should be very bare, not strappy. Tapered toe, open (plain), or closed.
Avoid: Overly delicate or strappy styles. Ornamentation and trim.

BAGS
Moderate-sized, unconstructed pouches. Shoulder bags. Simple geometrics in supple leather (envelopes, clutches, etc.). Box-shaped bags for evening.
Avoid: Overly delicate or ornate styles.

BELTS
Leather belts should be simple and softly geometric. Textured or carved surfaces are excellent. Fabric sashes, ties, and dropped waist detail are also good.
Avoid: Severe, wild belts. Ornate, cinched-waist styles.

HATS
Unconstructed styles. Large, loose, and floppy. Shaggy-haired fur.
Avoid: Extremely tailored, crisp styles. Ornate and delicate styles.

HOSIERY
A flesh-toned stocking is best for business. Funky stockings that are brightly colored or printed can be fun for you, and geometric textures can sometimes be effective.
Avoid: One long line of dark color. Dark stockings for daytime. Lacy or ornate stockings.

JEWELRY
Jewelry should be kept on the chunky side, with soft or rounded-edged geometrics the shapes you use. Your jewelry can either be pieces of "wearable art" (handcrafted and museum quality) made by an artist or taken from another culture, or it can be bright and funky costume pieces that add pizzazz!
Earthy materials are very elegant and sophisticated on you (copper, silver, amber, turquoise, etc.). Hard-finished enamels and glass are fun, especially when used in bold colors for vivid accents (big bright beads, chunky earrings, irregularly shaped pins, etc.). It is possible to get away with very minimal chains, tiny diamond studs, etc., but chances are you won't be satisfied with this once you experiment with a zippier look!
Avoid: Ornate and intricate styles. Antique, rococo, and baroque. Dangly and delicate styles. Severe or sharply angular styles. Small jewelry. Symmetrical and classic styles.

EVENING WEAR
Simple shapes with easy fits. Minimal detail. Bare necklines and shoulders. Smooth to slightly plush fabrics. Glitzy fabrics. Metallics.
Bare Sheaths
Strapless gowns with stoles and flings
Jersey cocktail dresses
Evening sweater-dresses with glitz
Evening sarongs
Evening separates (blouses, skirts, pants)
Evening pants

HAIR
Hair should be tousled, loose, and free-a soft geometric shape with a feathered outline. Layering is essential. Perms and body waves are fine, and your hair can definitely lean to the "wild animal-mane look" for fun or evening wear!

HAIRCOLOR
Haircolor should always look natural with realistic color and shining, subtle highlights. Be very careful with complete color changes. Artificial colors or lights are very unsophisticated on your. Over high-lighting the hair is particularly matronly on you.
Avoid: Smooth, sleek styles. Blunt-edged cuts. Severe geometrics. Boyishly cropped cuts. Overly groomed styles (too stuffy and matronly on you). Ornate or set styles. Overly teased and coiffed styles.

MAKEUP
Your makeup should be created to achieve a fresh-faced glow, radiant and healthy. Matte-finished products are best, with just a touch of sparkle added for evening. Smoky eyes with glowing cheeks and shining lips come from a preponderance of neutral color choices, with just a hint or soft color on top.

NOTE: A minimal makeup look is not the same thing as wearing no makeup! The most careful blending of products is crucial for you; otherwise you'll appear faded and tired, hardly the picture of health you want to project!

Avoid: Overly colorful makeup. Overly sparkly makeup. Overly angular or severe makeup. High-contrast makeup (pale skin, vivid eyes, lips mouth). Wearing absolutely no makeup, or only eye makeup.

YOUR NATURAL FACE

YIN/YANG BALANCE:
Soft Yang
MAKEUP CONCEPT:
The Fresh Face: Neutral color choices (within the context of the palette being used) with hints of bright color for vitality. Slightly angular blending, but very soft-edged.

APPLICATION KEYS:
Eyes: Muted shades with a hint of bright color. Very blended eyeliner. Matte products.

Blush: Moderate colors that are well-blended for a muted effect. Applied in an angular stroke but with soft edges to avoid sharpness.

Lips: Moderate color, sheer and translucent.

Avoid: An overly ornate face.

MAKEUP COLOR CHART FOR NATURAL'S

SPRING

Lips:
1. Soft Peach
2. Orange Red
3. Salmon Pink to Soft Coral Pink

Blush:
1. Peach
2. Orange Red
3. Salmon Pink

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Olive/Jade/Pale Peach
2. Teal/Bright Aqua/Pale Gold
3. Honey Brown/Clear Copper/Pale Yellow

SUMMER

Lips:
1. Soft Rose
2. Rosy Red
3. Orchid to light Pink

Blush:
1. Rose
2. Rosy Red
3. Dusty Fuchsia to Soft Pink

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Soft Navy/Periwinkle/Iced Pink
2. Smoky Purple/Mauve/Medium Pink
3. Blue-Gray/Rose/Lavender

AUTUMN

Lips:
1. Copper
2. Rusty Red
3. Honey Beige to Soft Terra Cotta

Blush:
1. Bronze
2. Brick Red
3. Vivid peach to Soft Terra Cotta

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Chestnut/ Copper/Pale Apricot
2. Olive/Jade/Pale Yellow
3. Deep Teal/ Turquoise/Mustard

WINTER

Lips:
1. Bright Plum to Soft Cranberry
2. Bright Scarlet
3. Hot Pink to Fuchsia

Blush:
1. Dark Rose to Vivid Plum
2. Clear Scarlet
3. Hot Pink to Bright Fuchsia

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Navy/Cobalt/Medium Pink
2. Royal Purple/Burgundy/Light Lavender
3. Charcoal/Deep Violet/Iced Pink


MAKEUP NOTES:
Lipsticks should nearly always be matte. A minimal frost may be used in the lightest shades. Always cover lipstick with clear gloss.
With eyeshadow keep the outer lid color smoky & fairly deep. The orbital bone clear and bright, and the highlighter very pale and slightly tinted. Products
should generally be matte, except the highlighter, which will have some iridescence.

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