Яркий натурал: рекомендации

Shirley MacLaine

FLAMBOYANT NATURAL

Strong Yang with Blunt Edges

No one will be identical in looks, but the similarities you share are in the soft blunted yang physical attributes. You also mentioned you have square shoulders.

For this category it states that texture in all weights from very light to very heavy is the most exciting way to express yourself through fabric. A rough surface is always preferable to a flat surface.

Very shiny fabrics are excellent for evening, if the weight is kept to the heavy side. All leathers, suedes, and plush fabrics are excellent.

Elongated vertical line with strong shoulders as the basis of your ensemble. Artfully mixing textures is especially effective.

Jackets should be long, unconstructed and loose. Length should be from top of the thigh down (never shorter). Monochromatic schemes tend to be a little dull on you, although you may want to go with one major color that is accentuated by another bright shade.

Shoes tailored and angular, but have soft edges instead of sharp ones.

Hair should be loose, relaxed and free. A tousled effect is best, so layering is always called for. If you hair is ultrafine, thin, and wispy, you look best with a shortish cut that is layered around the face to create the illusion of volume. The outline is geometric, but the edges are softened by the layering. If your hair is thick, you can opt for a wilder, "lion's mane" effect if you wish, but layering is still important.
Avoid: All severe geometrics. Blunt-edged symmetrical cuts. Boyishly cropped cuts. Overly ornate, teased or coiffed hair. Smooth sleek styles.

Skirts should be long and straight but not severe. Slits, pockets, kick pleats, plackets, etc., are good, but any draping or shirring should be kept low and loose (from the hips down), and no detail should ever inhibit mobility.
Short straight skirts are fun and funky -- but worn with oversized tops.

Hemlines are longish on straight skirts and should fall at the top of the calf of longer. Hemlines on full skirts are uneven and should be very long (bottom of the calf is the minimum length).

Lipsticks should usually be matte, although the lightest shades may have a slight frosting.

Dusty (also known as Summer) Lipstick: Deep Rose, Rosy Red, Soft Fuchsia to Medium Pink

Rich (also known as Autumn) Rich Copper to Mahogany, Tomato Red, Terra Cotta to Deep Honey Beige

Knits should be thick, rough, bulky, heavy, or ultraplush. Skinny and ribbed knits are possible in oversized garments. Loosely woven fabrics.
Avoid: Ultrasheer, flimsy, or clingy fabrics. Stiff, flat fabrics. Tightly woven fabrics. Delicate, shiny fabrics.

Necklines should be loose and open, always unconfined (boatnecks, camisoles, simple slashes, oversized cowls, open notched collars, etc.).

Waist should be elongated. A dropped waist does this best, although a "bloused-over" effect at the waist is also possible. Be very careful with waist emphasis. It is rarely helpful to you, even if your waist is small, because it destroys the strong, vertical line that is the core of your silhouette.

Gathers, folds, sashes, etc., should be ultra deep and long--asymmetrical in shape, and low on the body--preferably from the hips down.

Pleats should be soft, low, and deep (inverted or kick-style, or stitched down through the midsection).

Trim should be bold, oversized, and asymmetrical or clean and minimal.
Avoid: Sharp, tailored detail. Severe, geometric detail. Small, symmetrical detail. Ornate, intricate detail. Animated, "cute" detail (perky and crisp).

Pants: Pants should be roomy and full. Man-tailored styles that are slightly wide and relaxed in construction. Deep pleats, full pockets, and wide, soft cuffs are excellent detail, as are pocket-flaps and plackets. Satiny evening pants that are wide and full are also excellent.
Avoid: Sharply tailored and fitted pants. Overly draped pants with tapered legs.

Dresses: Dresses should be bold and sweeping. Broad shoulders and an elongated waist (usually dropped) are best. They are relaxed in outline and shape, and may be either very narrow and slinky or wide and full cut. Shirring, draping, applique, etc., should be kept low and exceuted in bold, abstract patterns.
Avoid: Flouncy dresses with excess detail and ornate, fussy trim. Severly tailored dresses. Overly fitted dresses with crisp or animated detail.

Regarding skirts: Avoid long, pencil-slim styles. Short symmetrical styles. Flouncy styles. Smooth, flared styles.

Blouses should be roomy and full with simple detail and relaxed construction. Wide and horizontal cuts with clean necklines that are unrestricted are best.
Camisoles are very useful under jackets.
Avoid: Severely tailored blouses. Overly fitted blouses. Overly ornate blouses with intricate or fussy detail. Blouses with high, stiff or constricted necklines.

Evening Wear: Bold shapes with sweeping lines. Shoulder emphasis. Easy necklines. Bold prints. Glitzy fabric. Smooth fabric. Slightly plush fabric.

Ultradrapable fabric (matte jersey, etc.) Either minimal detail or bold, broad detail.
Broad-shoulder gowns with dropped waists
Widely cut, unconstructed gowns of draped fabric (matte jersey, silk, etc.)
Evening pants ensembles (long, bed jackets with wide-legged satin pajama pants, etc.)
Bare gowns with bold jewelry
Evening sarongs
Evening caftans
Evening sweater dresses with glitz


Flamboyant Natural

Strong, straight bone structure that is elongated, wide, or broad; body type tends to muscular width or sinewy length; facial bones are strong and prominent but widely blunt or asymmetrical (not narrow and sharp); facial features are strong but narrow (not round and lush).

Prints should be bold and vivid, expressed in abstract geometrics, irregular shapes, or soft-edge asymmetrics. They should also have a blended edge as opposed to a sharp edge. Color combinations should be dramatically vivid, but the colors should fade into each other instead of being crisply defined. Wild animal prints, tropical prints, and any highly original motif that is both sophisticated and earthy, with a touch of wit, may all be used with ease.
Avoid: Sharp geometrics. Small symmetrical prints. Watercolor florals. Small, animated prints. Intricate or ornate prints.


Flamboyant Natural:

Separates are extremely exciting on you and should make up the bulk of your wardrobe. A mix-and-match effect is excellent, but be careful always to maintain an elongated vertical line with strong shoulders as the basis of your ensemble. Artfully mixing textures is especially effective.

Color: Your use of color should be bold and vivid, with rich, vibrant tones the most exciting intensities for you. Wild and unusual color combinations express your free spirit most effectively, although rich neutrals in those lush textures you wear so well are also nice, particularly if you use vivid accents.

Avoid: Multicolored splashes (too perky for you). Monochromatic schemes without vivid accessories. Dull colors unless they are executed in rich textures.

Shoes and bags, coming from the Yang side, should generally be angular. However, once again we want to avoid sharp edges and keep the detail minimal. Any unstructured shapes will always work best for you.

Jewelry:
Your jewelry is one of the most important elements of your entire look. It shows your sophistication as well as giving you the chance to express your creativity. Bold, heavy pieces are essential to you. Chunky shapes that are thick, rough, or asymmetric are always necessary. "Wearable art" that looks as if you picked it up at an expensive gallery, or on a journey overseases, is excellent. (Anthing that seems as though it was designed by an artists, or creatively crafted, falls into this category as well.)
Your version of convervative jewelry is thick and chunky metal in irregular shapes or shoft-edged geometrics. Your version of glamourous jewelry is wildly executed "faux jewel" pieces--very sophiticated works of art! Funky costume jewelry is fun for you, but it's for your casual look. Just remember to keep it big and bold.
Avoid: Delicate, antique jewelry. Ornate, intricate jewelry. sharp-edged geometrics. Small, symmetrical pieces. "No jewelry" of minimal looks.


Texture, in all weights, from very light to very heavy, is the most exciting way to express yourself through fabric. A rough surface is always preferable to a flat surface.

Very shiny fabrics are excellent for evening, if the weight is kept to the heavy side (stiff satins, brocades, metallics, etc.). Daytime sheen should be in texture only (raw silk, shantung, etc.).

All leathers, suedes, and plush fabrics are excellent. Draped fabrics must be ultra-thick and heavy. Knits should be thick, rough, bulky, heavy, or ultra-plush. Skinny and ribbed knits are possible in overszied garments. Loosely woven fabrics.
Avoid: Ultra-sheer, flimsy, or clingy fabrics. Stiff, flat fabrics. Tightly woven fabrics.

MAKEUP:
Your makeup is the finishing touch for your look, providing the final bit of sophistication and the slightly exotic air for which you are famous.

Emphasize your strong bone structure and features with strongly accented cheekbones and a deep or bright lipstick. Exotic eyes with a touch of color (even a little sheer frost) will bring in the hint of drama that spells elegance on you. In the evening, you can go much more heavily into opaque frosts if you wish.

Also, always keep your lips sheer and glossy, even though you are using a strong color for the base. Blot, then coat with heavy gloss.

Avoid: Overly ornate makeup (too unsophisticated on you). Overly pastel makeup--especially a too-light lipcolor (too matronly on you). Overly smoky makeup (too stark on you). Neutrals, without a hint of colorful makeup (too dull and cold on you). No makeup or minimal effect (too tiring and aging on you).

YIN/YANG BALANCE:

Soft Yang with blunt edges (not sharp)


MAKEUP CONCEPT:

The Exotic Face (bold and fresh)

Strong color choices that are well-blended, and a very strongly defined shape, slightly sculpted but not sharp.

APPLICATION KEYS:

Eyes: Bold colors that are very blended. A deep lid color for strong shape and definition. Deep eyeliner, but very blended. Primarily matte shades.

Blush: Strong cheekbone line. Bold color. Slightly angular application, but with a soft edge to avoid sharpness.

Lips: Strong mouth with a deep lip color to balance eye and cheek. Slightly glossy.
Avoid: A too dull or too neutral face. An overly ornate face (with excess sparkle).

MAKEUP COLOR CHART FOR NATURAL'S

SPRING

Lips:
1. Rich Peach
2. Clear Red
3. Salmon Pink to Soft Coral Pink

Blush:
1. Vivid Peach
2. Orange Red
3. Salmon Pink

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Soft Olive/Jade/Gold
2. Teal/Turquoise/Peach
3. Soft Chestnut/Bright Copper/Yellow


SUMMER

Lips:
1. Deep Rose
2. Rosy Red
3. Soft Fuchsia to Medium Pink

Blush:
1. Strong Rose
2. Rosy Red
3. Dusty Fuchsia to Pink

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):

1. Soft Navy/Medium Cobalt/Medium Pink
2. Charcoal/ Mauve/Pale Pink
3. Smoky Purple/Soft Fuchsia/Lavender


AUTUMN

Lips:
1. Rich Copper to Mahogany
2. Tomato Red
3. Terra Cotta to Deep Honey Beige

Blush:
1. Deep Bronze
2. Bright Brick Red
3. Terra Cotta to Vivid Peach


Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Forest/Olive/Mustard
2. Deep Teal/Turquoise/Apricot
3. Sable/Copper/Yellow


WINTER

Lips:
1. Vivid Cranberry to Bold Plum
2. Deep Scarlet
3. Bright Fuchsia

Blush:
1. Bold Cranberry
2. Deep Scarlet
3. Bright Fuchsia

Eyeshadow (Outer Lid/Orbital Bone/Highlighter):
1. Royal Purple/Bright Fuchsia/Pale Lavender
2. Black/Royal Blue/Medium Pink
3. Navy/Deep Violet/ Pale Pink


MAKEUP NOTES:

Lipsticks should usually be matte, although the lightest shades may have a slight frosting. Apply heavy gloss over the lipstick.

Eyeliner: Use the same tone as the lid color, but several shades deeper. Keep a strong definition.

Eyeshadows should generally be matte, with a smoky and dark outer lid color for a strong shape, a bold orbital bone color, and a rich highlighter. Iridescence should be confined to the highlighter.